New Visions of Menswear : Damir Doma Paris Menswear Collection Spring/Summer 2015
Croatian born, German raised Damir Doma is the creative force behind the label that bears his name. It has now been seven years since the Paris-based brand released its first collection. This period has seen the brand develop and expand in both thematic scope and popularity in retail.
After his studies, Damir worked as an assistant for the famous Belgian designer Raf Simons. The initial aesthetics of his label was informed by Nomad and Bedouin cultures, with garments being monastic and flowing. Silhouettes were rendered in drapes and form-defying sizing, with somber colorways that built to a futuristic desert atmosphere.
Recent seasons have seen a transformation to a more refined, minimal, sportswear-influenced direction. The Damir Doma Paris Menswear Collection for Spring/Summer 2015 continued to explore this new aesthetic of everyday wearability and minimalistic sophistication. Rather than a catwalk, Doma chose an intimate presentation and installation. It was a simple presentation lacking pretense or artifice that reflected Damir Doma’s pared back vision for Spring/Summer.
Clothes were displayed on mannequins while a short film shot by Carlotta Manaigo was screened. Collaboration, always an aspect of Doma’s practice, was exemplified by his glasses line with Mytika and an in-house magazine designed in conjunction with graphic designer Tiffany Godoy. Thematic inspiration for the collection came from graphics present in the natural world, from rocks to butterflies. The subtle asymmetry of these natural forms was then reflected in the cutting and patterns of the garments. Overcoats were oversized and loose worker jackets had rounded dropped shoulders while suit jackets were cut to fasten in asymmetrical fashion across the body. The entire collection was cast in a range of subdued naturalistic color tones, and basic, almost Rorschach patterns. The result was a collection of relaxed, unstructured pieces that spoke to a creative and practical life.