Tropical Dandies at Issey Miyake for Spring/Summer 2015
Issey Miyake came to prominence during the 1980s, a period when Japanese fashion birthed giants who boldly reconfigured the fashion environment. Issey Miyake, alongside Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, brought new and powerful aesthetics to the staid runways of Paris, and Miyake was characterized by his technical approach to fashion design. His famous method of pleating which the label pioneered in the 1980s even now feels like clothing suited for the near future, and the technical aspirations of the garments were merged with comfort and flexibility, the simple and dynamic shapes resulting in the creation of harmonious effortlessly fashion forward garments.
Since the departure of Issey Miyake himself, the label’s pedigree has continued in unbroken fashion with talented designers creating new visions for the house. For Issey Miyake Paris Menswear Collection Spring/Summer 2015 Tropical Dandies, designer Yusuke Takahashi offered a compelling collection inspired by exotic resorts and the mysterious depths of the ocean.
Yusuke Takahashi eschewed the formalism and technical impulse that characterizes the public’s view of what Issey Miyake produces; instead the collection channeled a sense of uncomplicated elegance in its creation of uniquely Issey Miyake resort wear. Sharply-cut jackets and shorts paraded down the runway, the Hawaiian shirt rendered in digital print was reconfigured in Japanese fashion through handmade graphics designed by Kyoto based artisans, while unconventional textile choices as abacá, pineapple and kibira (a type of linen) reminded the viewer of the ongoing dialogue the designer has with craft and textile manipulation, confirmed with the appearance of Issey Miyake’s distinctive pleating dyed in four differing blue shades to reference oceanic hues. The exotic journey that resulted showcased the light touch that Takahashi brings to his designs and his ability to create an immensely covetable wardrobe.